02/05/2016

Knoklar knustes under kalde kallars frammarsj - og pinte born lot seg døy.

I've not posted in some time, not because I've forgotten but rather because I don't finish stuff to a point where it is worth showcasing. There's a couple posts waiting to be submitted, partially written, but I never completed them. Maybe later.

For now, I'll be posting what I have been working on! Since around 2013 I've been keeping an eye on the Horus Heresy models and games being put out by Forge World. There were rumours and rumblings for a long time about possible plastic kits coming out, and when the plastic sprues for Betrayal at Calth started leaking out during early 2015 I started seriously looking into how stuff worked.

While most of my force is still very much a work in progress, I did sit down this last week and put together a temporary commander for my Iron Warriors. Converted from a wide array of bits, the concept was based around more of an artscale-oriented approach to make him stand out more on the field. Mounted on his base, he stands a whole two heads taller than normal power armoured marines.

Warsmith Teurastaja.



Consisting of a wide variety of parts, the basic body is a pair of extra Cataphractii legs from Betrayal at Calth as well as Lightning Claws from the same, with the shoulders hacked off and mounted on arm stubs with a little green stuff to blend them together a little better. The torso is from the Legion MKIII kit, while the head is from the recent Space Marine Tactical Squad kit - I picked a bare head intentionally, for the purpose of amplifying the sense of scale. The backpack is just a standard Calth MKIV version, while the servo-arm is from the Skitarii Dunecrawler set.

Here's a comparison shot with my older Warsmith from many years ago, as well as a standard Tactical marine.



The base was done using sand from the beach, cork from the hobby store, bits of paperclip and the helmet, spare shoulders and front torso of a MKIV Calth marine. I soak the cork in superglue so it will harden up and be both easier to paint and less likely to come apart.

I also did some more bases using the same sand and cork, but also with a mix of broken matchsticks, wire and bits of skulls and bones.



The base was sprayed black and painted in Mechanicus Standard Grey, covered with a layer of nuln oil, drybrushed with more Mechanicus Standard Grey, followed by Administratum Grey and finally White Scar. The metals were painted with Leadbelcher, washed with Agrax Earthshade, and highlighted with Ironbreaker.

The power armour of the fallen marine was done with a thin layer of Abaddon Black, letting the grey highlights under it shine through ever so slightly, with a light nudge of Ironbreaker here and there to simulate both wear and highlight various features. The eyes were painted with a thin layer of Wazdakka Red, washed with Agrax Earthshade, and then carefully picked out along the bottom part with more thinned Wazdakka before a final dot of White Scar was added in the corner.




The painting on the Warsmith began with black primer, followed by an airbrushed layer of Air Leadbelcher to get good coverage, before using stencils to airbrush on hazard stripes with a couple layers of Yriel Yellow. Rhinox Hide was then thinned down with water to an almost wash-like consistency and smudged around the armour, to create an impression of wear and filth, while Nuln Oil was applied to nooks and crannies to increase contrast. It was then tidied up with Leadbelcher and highlighted with Ironbreaker painted across the lighter parts of the panels to simulate lighting and increase the contrast and texture in the metals.

The shoulders and knees were painted in multiple thin layers of Abaddon Black to get a smooth finish, with a layer to the rebreather as well though taking care to let some metallic shine through. The brass was done with a layer of Sycorax Bronze followed by a wash of Agrax Earthshade to warm it up a little, before applying another layer of Sycorax Bronze.




The knee and hip joints were washed with a couple layers of Nuln Oil to dull them down a little. The entirety of the armour, including the brass, was then dotted in various places with Runefang Steel, with special attention to the edges of the black parts and rebreather to make them look slightly worn and dinged up, but not excessively so.

The end of the servo-arm was smudged black with an old pot of dulled Chaos Black I have sitting around, before being highlighted by Ironbreaker and once more a dot of Runefang Steel here and there. The cables were done with Mephiston Red, washed with Agrax Earthshade, and finally given a slight highlight with Wazdakka Red.

Finally, I painted the skin with a basecoat of Rhinox Hide and Baneblade brown before Cadian Fleshtone was applied, which I believe I then washed with Carroburg Crimson. The eyes were dotted with Druchii Violet, to get a slighty more weary look to the face. Cadian Fleshtone was then reapplied to lighten the face up again, with a few fine highlights done using a mix of Cadian Fleshtone and White Scar.



I then set about adding decals. Unfortunately I didn't have all the accessories I should have, so it was very much not entirely as I had hoped.. I used Vallejo Decal Fix in this instance, which was 'alright' but I definitely should have cut a little into the IV decal to help it set better.

The decals were from one Space Marine vehicle sheet for the IV, while the skull and gear were from a Skitarii sheet.



I might go back to this model again and add a little, but as a stopgap HQ he's pretty alright. I'm not used to painting characters, so it is good practise before getting started on the resin characters from Forge World. Blacking out the shield on the chest would be a good start, as well as possibly darkening the area above his eyes.

Overall, it's a pretty big jump from one decade to the next.



Now I just need to finish the shoulders and guns on his grunts, which are being done using the same methods.



05/04/2015

Kjøpmannen handla i sjel og stål - og si eiga var den første å forgå.



I recently had the BattleTech Alpha Strike rulebook and companion drop down in my mailbox, and was inspired to make a Steiner-centric OpFor for the purpose of drafting more losers playing demo games. I already have a good chunk of Kuritans underway, and the Steiners' affinity for heavier machines is always popular with newbies. While this initial batch is a little bit 'lightweight', it does feature multiple designs common to the Lyran Commonwealth Armed Forces, with multiple flexible bread-and-butter units like the Commando, Hunchback and Griffin.

I picked out the Commando, Hunchback, Zeus and Banshee from the current introductory set and supplemented them with a Wolfhound from the Alpha Strike Pursuit Lance Pack. Afterwards I dug out some old plastic Unseen from back in the 90s specifically the Griffin, Shadow Hawk and Crusader, and proceeded to tinker with the various models.

Screw whatever plastic they used for those unseen, seriously!

After a bunch of mucking about, which resulted in me using a file and lighter to remove mold lines and clipping off the Shadow Hawk's guns and replacing them with paper clips to prevent the cruddy plastic from breaking, I set the unseen aside and got to work on the intro set models, which was a lot more relaxing. I drilled holes in the Zeus and Banshee's heads to make room for aerials using copper wire. Simple and looks good, a little thing which makes a huge difference. Finally I proceeded to convert the Banshee from the 3E to the 3S variant, as it is capable of dishing out a lot more pain. I'm not quite happy with the process or the results, but I'd rather just consider it a learning experience than attempting to do it over.


Though very much imperfect, I do like the  idea of the missile launcher being built into the chest, unlike the official model.


The models were based by smearing Loctite Hybrid Glue across the base and submerging them in sand - I find that the hybrid glue is much more durable than PVA glue, making it a little more reliable, if pricier. Once the glue had hardened, the models were primed black and airbrushed Baneblade Brown followed by Altdorf Guard Blue. Metals were then picked out, before washing the entire thing with Nuln Oil. The blues were tidied up with a normal brush and some thinned down paint to bring the color out after the wash, before the base was painted over with Baneblade Brown and washed with Agrax Earthshade, followed by another quick drybrush of Baneblade Brown and a final light drybrush of Ushabti Bone around the edges.

The last few stages involved simple highlights using Lothern Blue, tidying up the metals a bit, and adding jeweling to the cockpits and some weapons. The cockpits were painted Mephiston Red before carefully applying a couple thin layers of Fire Dragon Bright and a dash of Flash Gitz Yellow, with a final speck of White Scar for the reflection of the sun. The edges were then filled in with a small stripe of Nuln Oil to create a more clear divide between the blues and oranges, before tidying up the areas around the cockpits. Finally, Chaos Black was applied to the areas around the Hunchback's cannon and the Banshee's missile rack before receiving a slight drybrush of Leadbelcher. A couple thin layers of Satin Varnish were sprayed on to help protect the paintjobs over time, before a couple tufts were glued to the bases.

Overall, this was a very quick job with fast results. I spent more time trying to fix the old plastics than actually painting, which made it easier to rush the rest out the door, which is usually a bad thing. A lot of these models aren't that amazing, though I love them all equally, and I do feel obligated to supplement them later on with a few nicer pieces. This was the first time I used the Loctite Hybrid Glue to base the models, and it works very well when using sand. It's important to have a good diversity of basic models to choose from, and with that as the objective I think this was successful.





Model sources:
BattleTech Introductory Box Set
BattleTech Alpha Strike Pursuit Lance Pack
BattleTech Third Edition Boxed Set

Tools used;
Exacto knife
Sculpting tools
0,5mm & 1,0mm drill pieces
Loctite Brush On Super glue
Loctite Universal Hybrid Glue
Satin Varnish

Paints used:
Citadel Chaos Black Primer
Citadel Chaos Black
Citadel Leadbelcher
Citadel Baneblade Brown
Citadel Ushabti Bone
Citadel Altdorf Guard Blue
Citadel Lothern Blue
Citadel Mephiston Red
Citadel Fire Dragon Bright
Citadel Flash Gitz Yellow
Citadel White Scar
Citadel Nuln Oil
Citadel Agrax Earthshade

Materials used:
Copper wire 0,4mm
Plasticard
Paper clips
Cotton sticks
Sculpting epoxy
Sand from the beach
Citadel Mordheim Tufts

28/09/2014

Ein hær av hat og hemn sendte verda i ruin med eksplosiv eld og herjing.

Armies of hatred that no longer have civil rights.

Recently I picked up a massive lot of models from a local player who was looking to free up space for his newborn's room, consisting of large amounts of Space Marines, Chaos Space Marines and Imperial Guard of various flavors. Digging through the Imperial Guard I noticed a large amount of conversions of varying quality, making them altogether fairly inconsistent, but there were a large number of Catachan models that were largely unmolested, meaning less work for me. Some slight clean-up and a headswap (courtesy of Ramshackle Games) did wonders, as I never liked the original Catachan heads for the most part, and I followed up by making camo cloaks using green stuff.

Run to the churches and exorcise all of the brothers.

I slathered the cloaks with Armageddon Dust, my go-to pot for textures and basing, applying two layers to the bases to build them up a little. To make the sergeants stand out a little I added a pair of resin skulls to their base, which I got for cheap from a Chinese eBay seller. They came in a little ziplock bag, quite handy for details. After all, it's not Warhammer if there's not skulls all over it.

Yeah, I corrupted and ravaged her mind.

After applying a black primer, I doused the models in Dryad Bark, and drybrushed on a layer of Baneblade Brown and Screaming Skull. The pants and masks were covered in Mechanicus Standard Grey while Tallarn Flesh provided a nice basecoat for their beefy arms. When all the base colors were in place, I liberally applied liquid skill before drybrushing over the rest with Mechanicus Standard Grey, Administratum Grey and a hint of White Scar for the pants and masks, and Screaming Skull for the bases, camo and weapons. I used thinned down Cadian Fleshtone for the arms, and a dash of Evil Sunz Scarlet for the eyes - I would have done a jeweling effect, but I was running short on time. The metals were a simple layer of Runefang Steel covered in Drakenhof Nightshade, again I would have done more but simply did not have the time to do so. To top it off I added some Middenland Tufts secured with superglue after applying a coat of Satin Varnish.

I did my time, but nothing came easy.

In the end, I am pleased with the results, the paintjob is rushed and I cut corners but they look quite nice on the tabletop. I have some 10-20 more Catachans I can salvage, so I will revisit them at some point in the future and add models to represent Demolition Charges, Meltaguns, and so forth. Best of all, they can double as Chaos Cultists as well!











04/08/2014

Han sat og åt grøt, kallen, mens vinden ulte og kalte på han, og kulda beit tak i kroppen.

I had a few models laying around that didn't really fit into any of my pre-planned lances, so I put them together in their own unit along with a test model for a tan paint scheme. I'd purchased a pretty nice brown the other day, and after priming the models white I used my airbrush to apply a bone color with streaks of brown to mimic a desert camo scheme, which turned out like this:

From left to right: Hermes II (test model), Assassin, Grasshopper and Banshee

This was fairly easy, and made them look distinct in their own right! I followed up with a bottle of the much loathed 'liquid skill', citadel's earth wash, before adding a few details, highlights and jeweling. Fairly easy to do and simple to emulate, I've ended up scrapping some of my other WIP paintjobs which were less successful and stripped down the models to simply be painted liked this in the near future.

The Assassin's cockpit glass may look fancy, but I actually messed it up pretty bad and had to redo it several times - this process alone took much longer than any of the work up until then put together!



31/07/2014

Beinknusar Vilhelm sa til seg sjølv, "om eg og Tordenkongen var vener, hadde det blitt delt ein siste øl".

Some time since my last update - I've been doing things on an off, just not really finished anything.

I purchased the Classic BattleTech Introductory Set some time earlier this year, fun stuff indeed. It has a lot of funky old-school models, which I've been expanding upon with the miniatures from Iron Wind Metals. Here I've painted a Free Rasalhague Republic force consisting of a Clint from the intro set, a Dark Age Hatchetman, and a re-seen Wolverine and Archer.

After assembling the models, they were primed black, and I used an airbrush to apply the dusty earth color to the base and most of the upper parts of the mechs as a form of pre-highlighting. I then applied two shades of teal in succession to get a nice base coat, though in retrospect I should have use blue and light teal to get more vibrant colors. Still, it worked out alright, pretty cool and simple effect.

For detailing, I just used reds and silver to pick out cockpits, missiles, and weapons. To avoid making the models too noisy, I refrained from adding any more detail - they're meant for table-top use, and I'm fine with keeping them simple. A black wash added some depth, before highlights and jeweling finished it up. I didn't really bother doing anything more with the metals, as they're a fairly small part of the models

I will definitely use the airbrush more for models such as this, and have already started on some. I have a couple more lances from the intro set in various stages of completion, and will be posting them in fours as they come together.





Here's a bonus picture of the earlier stage where I'd just finished airbrushing;



24/03/2014

Blodeting vart det forbud mot i skogen, men trollkallen tok hemn når han slukte ungane i dalen.

I finally got an excuse to paint up my Convergence of Cyriss Battle Group with the announcement of a Warmachine/Hordes slow-grow Journeyman League which will run through April and end early May.

After having a look at the existing armies, I decided to go for something which would stand out - a dominant yellow and brass color scheme. Bright colors aren't very common, and it doesn't help that painting yellow over black can be a chore. I did consider a white undercoat, and now I'm not sure why I didn't go for it, but very well! I'll see about using it on my Clockwork Angels when they arrive.

I started with the biggest model in the box - the Cipher Heavy Vector. The reason for this was that the size of the model made it easy to test out the color scheme and correct any mishaps. I have another Heavy Vector set laying around, and I'm excited to get started on it after getting pretty reasonable results.

First I drybrushed the entire model with Runelord Brass, then used various layers of Nuln Oil and Agrax Earthshade to adjust it, followed by more drybrushing and finally some highlights here and there with Leadbelcher. I preferred not to use a silver highlight, as I wanted the metal to look more dull and worn. The yellows were done using Citadel's Averland Sunset, thinned down a little and applied in two layers, followed by Flash Gitz Yellow in another 2-3 layers. The shades were done using Seraphim Sepia, with some thinned down Skull White for the highlights. The lenses were done with a little bit of Mephiston Red, Fire Dragon Bright, and a spot of Skull White.

 The base is made from pieces of plasticard cut up and put on top of each other to resemble rocky outcrops, followed by a slathering of glue and sand for texture. They were painted in a fairly plain grey, which is much more cool than the warm brass and yellows on the models themselves. Pretty simple process, mostly just drybrushing. I added a paperclip pin to support the Cipher, as the legs  have a very small contact surface, making it difficult to secure the model to the base without external support.

I'm pretty please with how it turned out, especially the yellow to brass ratios, which I thought would be much more in favor of the brass. The yellows turned out quite reasonable, and I had fun painting the model. I worked on and off on it all of Sunday, with a few touch-ups on Monday to round things off.

Unfortunately, I've been having some trouble getting good pictures! My phone camera is very much a hit or miss device. I had some more pictures, but they're largely a mess, so please excuse the blurriness. I'll see about posting more pictures of painted models in the following weeks.